Esslingen Christmas Market
‘Tis the Season! And it starts earlier everywhere outside the United States. In the US we’ve always had the Thanksgiving holiday to focus on before everything is Christmas, but in Europe you start seeing signs it’s Christmas right after Halloween and All Saints Day. I’m a fan especially because the daylight hours are so few. The lights and festivities make whole season such a beautiful time.
I went with a few friends on a sneak peek tour Christmas Market tour in Esslingen and I loved getting a “lay of the land” and some insider recommendations. Esslingen is one of the consistent top 10 Christmas markets in all of Germany and is expected to be extra busy this year as it has been cancelled due to the pandemic for the last two years. This market draws over 1 million visitors each year, which is hard to imagine in this little town of 100K, but they put on a good show.
One of the reasons this market is so popular is it’s perfect setting on the Neckar river in a city that wasn’t touched by any bombs of WWII. It is also beloved because it is a medieval themed market which means period dress and decor making it feel like you’ve really stepped back in time with all of the half-timbered houses.
Esslingen actually has the oldest half-timbered houses in all of Germany making so many of the alleyways and streets so picturesque and fun to wander. This town was on the major trade route coming up from Italy and the south and with their bridge over the river and roadway through the town they were able to monopolize and profit on all trade coming through. This tariff made up 60% of the town’s income, with the other 40% coming from their wine vineyards.
Some tips I learned while at the market from our local guide:
Prices are looking higher this year. It’s the first year back after the pandemic and some of the vendors are not back, but those that are have increased their prices significantly. I noticed that souvenirs, goods, trinkets are sometimes double or triple the price of what I have seen in town. This might be unique to just the Esslingen market because another market I went to a few days later was super cheap and reasonable, I thought.
The food is so good and part of the experience. I tried the recommended venison goulash with bread and a marshmallow-like pistachio treat, and took home a hazelnut sweet roll and giant pretzel for the kids.
Because it’s a medieval market there are medieval games and rides and entertainment happening all the time for the whole family. I can’t wait to take my kids back and see them sit in the human powered Ferris wheel or carousel swings.
You can reserve a medieval public bath, just like how it was in the olden days. It’s for small groups up to six people and it’s fully booked for the month-long market up to a year in advance. Being naked in public is really no big deal here, as is being naked with your family or coworkers 😬.
Other things you’ll see at all German Christmas Markets:
Glühwein (mulled wine). There’s also mulled wine with a shot of rum dropped in and lit on fire if that is your thing. And if you’re like me and don’t drink, there is punsch that is available for you and the kids — this tastes like spiced cider. The fun thing is that each market has their own mugs that you get with your drink. You can return the mug for a couple euros back, or you can keep it as a souvenir.
Roasted Chestnuts! Yay! These just aren’t as common in the US, which is funny because one of our beloved Christmas songs is all about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire.” These are such a fun treat and warm your hands while you stand by one of the many open bonfires through the market.
Before we moved to Germany Matt said he was most excited for the Christmas markets so we are planning to visit many of them this year. Esslingen is definitely one not to miss.
